Iwate Prefecture【Matukawa Hot Spring Kyounso】Part 2: The charm of "local hot springs" from a hot-spring guardian

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Matsukawa Onsen Kyounso

The charm of "THE ONSEN" is revealed!

One of the most enjoyable aspects of travel is the local cuisine, the spectacular scenery that changes with the seasons, and of course, the onsen (hot springs)! Did you know that there are many hot springs in eastern Japan that are called "ji-onsen," or "local hot springs," and have been loved by locals for centuries? Once used as therapeutic hot spring baths, and even today there are many hot spring resorts that continue to heal people. We will introduce the charms of "local hot springs" that warm the body and soul in the form of an interview!

What is a "Yumamori"?

The word "yumori" means "guardian of hot spring water. In other words, a "yumori" is a caretaker of a hot spring. They are in charge of controlling the amount and temperature of the hot water. The traditional hot spring baths that have taken root in each area and are the pride of the yumori of the "local hot springs" introduced in this project have been protected by them throughout their long history.

Milky-white open-air bath in a national park Matsukawa Onsen Kyoonsou

The second hot spring we will introduce is Matsukawa Onsen Kyounso, located in Hachimantai National Park in Iwate Prefecture. We spoke with Mr. Takahashi, the hot spring guardian.

Nature that changes beautifully from season to season

Entrance to Kyounso, a silver world in winter
Please tell us about the features and pride of Matsukawa Onsen Kyounso.

Mr. Takahashi, the Yumori-Manager
"Matsukawa Onsen is located in Hachimantai National Park and is a quiet inn built in a virgin forest of beech and oak trees. The muddy white water is abundant and always overflows from the bathtub.
Kyounso exterior and lobby
In winter, the entire area is covered with thick snow. The silver world created by the snow and the warm lights inside the inn are both contrasting and beautiful.

Healed by the milky white water

The hot spring water at Kyoonsou is an unusual milky white color.
Large Public Bath
The hot water at Kyoonsou has a fantastic color, doesn't it? What makes the water milky white?

Mr. Takahashi, Yumoru
"The hot spring water is clear when it first gushes out, but when it enters the bathtub and comes into contact with the air, it oxidizes and forms white hot water spores. In the open-air baths, depending on the day and the lighting conditions, the milky white water can be light blue, green, yellowish milky white, and many other colors.
Mixed bathing open-air bath in winter
It is fantastic to see the milky white color change depending on the timing! When you actually bathe in the hot spring, you should also pay attention to the color of the hot spring, asking yourself, "What color does it look like today? When you actually take a bath, please pay attention to the color of the hot spring water as well.

Horohoro-Tori hot pot" and "Iwago no kone-shu (rockfish bone wine)" to be enjoyed only in winter

What kind of foods are available in winter?

Yumori Takahashi
"How about rockfish bone wine as a winter delight? If you grill the char well for about an hour and pour hot sake over it, the broth from the char will come out and make a very tasty sake. The sake is local Washinoo. Since the char is grilled well, there is no fishy smell at all. Also, a large pot (3,800 yen for two or three servings) of horohorotori chicken hot pot (usually served in a single pot) is something I highly recommend trying in the winter."
Left: Large pot of Horohoro chicken hot pot for two or three people Right: Bone wine of rockfish
Incidentally, holohoro chicken is a member of the pheasant family, and is also called the "queen of food birds" because of its rich, juicy, tender meat. It is a must-try dish when staying at Kyoonsou.

Take a bonnet bus to the silver world!

Because the inn is located in a national park, you can easily experience the beauty of nature.
Bonnet buses that operate only from December to March
Please tell us about the special winter attractions of Matsukawa Onsen Kyounso.

Mr. Takahashi, Yumori
"In winter, it is a world of white snow. From December to March, the local buses become bonnet buses. Three buses run daily from Hachimantai Onsenkyo to Matsukawa Onsen (although they are 53 years old and sometimes break down and are closed). Snowshoeing is also a fun winter activity that allows you to walk in the forests where you normally cannot. You can do it right next to the inn, and for first-timers, a guide will show you the way. How about taking a 15-minute bus ride to the Kenmin-no Mori forest and snowshoeing to the Nanataki waterfalls to see the icefalls? It takes about two hours round trip.
Left: The ice fall at Shichidaki Waterfall Right: Snowshoeing
Do you see a person standing in the above left image? If you look carefully, you can see a small reflection a little to the left of the center. You can see the scale of the Nanadaki icefall!

Yumoro-no-sho's specialties

Please tell us about your commitment and thoughts as a Yumori-Yumori-Takahashi.

Mr. Takahashi
"The most important thing is the temperature of the water. The water is hot, but it cannot be adjusted by machine, so we measure the temperature every morning, noon, and night, and add water to adjust it. It is especially difficult to adjust the temperature in winter, when there are many snowstorms and the open-air baths tend to become lukewarm. Also, because it is a sulfur spring, sometimes we make the mistake of inadvertently forgetting that the pipes are clogged with hot water spores and the amount of hot water is low, causing the water to become lukewarm."
Mr. Takahashi, a yumamori (guardian of hot spring baths)
The temperature is adjusted three times daily by hand. When you see the labor involved, it makes you want to enjoy the onsen even more leisurely! Please feel free to speak directly to the hot spring master about your impressions of the hot spring.

Warm yourself from the inside out with milky white hot spring water and Horohoro-Tori hot pot!

How was it? In this issue, we have asked you about "Matsukawa Onsen Kyoonsou Winter Charms" in detail. Please visit Matsukawa Onsen Kyounso to enjoy the unique hot spring water and the great nature of Iwate Hachimantai.
A cute snowman may welcome you?

◆Next notice

We will continue to bring you the charms of eastern Japan's "local hot springs" in our series, "The Charms of Local Hot Springs"! Please look forward to the next installment.
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