Go deep into the culture nurtured by the Kaga clan. The Beauty and Techniques of the Kaga Maeda Family in Kanazawa and Takaoka

  • Ishikawa
  • Sightseeing
In 1583, Toshiie Maeda, a feudal warlord who is the subject of a popular historical drama, was given Kaga and Kanazawa in addition to his former territory of Noto, and entered Kanazawa. Toshiie was 46 years old at the time, and began by building Kanazawa Castle, and by 1588, he had expanded the territory of the Kaga domain to include Kaga, Noto, and Etchu (all of Toyama, including present-day Takaoka). After Toshiie's death, the Maeda family of the Kaga domain implemented measures to encourage cultural activities such as Noh, Kyogen, and the tea ceremony in order to avoid the strict scrutiny of the Tokugawa Shogunate. The eldest son, Toshinaga, further expanded the territory to 1.27 million koku. He further expanded the territory of the Kaga domain to 1.27 million koku, making it one of the largest domains among the foreign feudal lords.

The spots introduced here are Kanazawa City in Ishikawa Prefecture and Takaoka City in Toyama Prefecture, which were established by the Maeda family of the Kaga Domain. This tour will take you to both cities, where the culture of those days has been handed down from generation to generation. The Hokuriku Shinkansen is only one station away (about 13 minutes) and it takes less than one hour by car to visit the famous places in the two cities and unravel the deep connections between them. We look forward to an interesting historical and culinary journey that will reveal various and unexpected commonalities.

Let us introduce you to Kanazawa, a city where the elegant and powerful samurai culture flourished.

Introduction to Kanazawa

Maeda Toshiie, the founder of the Kaga domain, built the framework of the castle and laid the foundations of today's Kanazawa. Toshiie was born in 1538 in Arako Village, Owari Province (now Nakagawa Ward, Nagoya City), and entered the service of Nobunaga Oda at the age of 15. After achieving numerous successes and rising through the ranks, Toshiie acquired the Kaga domain and established a castle there. The Maeda family was a large clan that came under the attention of the shogunate, but to show that they had no intention of rebellion, they focused on culture and crafts.
The third generation Maeda Toshitsune invited renowned tea masters to collect tea ceremony utensils. He also gathered craft masters and artisans from Kyoto and Edo to reside in Kanazawa. Furthermore, the cultural promotion policy encouraged not only the warriors but also the common people, which led to the development of traditional crafts such as Kaga yuzen (kimono), Kanazawa lacquerware and gold leaf for tea ceremony utensils, Kutani ware, and Japanese sweets, which have been handed down to the present day. The elegant Hyakumangoku culture flourished.

Maido-san," a volunteer guide, will take you around Kanazawa.

Slip back in time to the Edo period at the Naga-machi Buke Yashiki (Samurai Residence) Ruins

Kanazawa was spared from war damage, and here and there you can see strong traces of the feudal government's era. Nagamachi, which looks like a time slip back to the Edo period, is a residential area for upper and middle class samurai of the Kaga domain. The earthen walls on both sides of the street and the intricate pathways that crank the walls are a measure to escape pursuers. This is a spot where one can feel the breath of the samurai of the time.
Noh drama flourished in Kanazawa, and both samurai and common people enjoyed the culture so much that there was a saying, "Chanting falls from the sky," and gardeners enjoyed chanting even from the top of trees. One can catch a glimpse of a craftsman climbing a pine tree in a samurai residence and humming a song in a good mood while pruning the tree.
The mansion, with its soft black roof tiles, is still used as a residence today.
The residence of a middle class samurai is open to the public.
The Onosho water supply is incorporated into the residence and a pond garden is created.

Oyama Shrine, dedicated to Toshiie Maeda and his wife Matsu

The Shinmon Gate, decorated with brightly colored diamonds, stands out even from a distance. The flexible form, a blend of Japanese, Chinese, and Western styles, is innovative and impressive. The glass used is four-colored, but in the right light it looks five-colored, so it is called the five-colored diamond gate," says Maido, the temple guide. It is also recommended to visit at sunset.
In the precincts of the shrine, there is a statue of the heroic Toshiie, carrying a long spear and wearing a robe to protect him from arrows. A statue of Matsumatsu, who supported Toshiie with her assistance, also stands next to it. The precincts of Oyama Shrine can be passed through, and if you walk to the back of the shrine, you will reach the Nezumata Gate entrance of Kanazawa Castle Park.
Oyama Shrine
The gate erected in 1875. National Important Cultural Property
Bronze statue of Toshiie Maeda

Kanazawa Castle Park, the Maeda family's castle

Kanazawa Castle was the residence of the Maeda family for 14 generations, beginning with Toshiie Maeda. Most of the original buildings were destroyed by fire. After the war, it was used as a campus of Kanazawa University, but after the university relocated, it was developed as a park. Many buildings have been restored one after another using the construction methods of the past, including the Hishi Yagura, Gojyumen Nagaya, Hashizume-mon Tsugyogura, Kahokimon, Gyokusen-in-maru Garden, Nezutamon and Nezutamon Bridge, and others. Together with the Ishikawa Gate and the Sanjuken Nagaya, which have remained from the feudal domain period, they are important spots that tell the story of Kanazawa's history. Currently, the Ninomaru Palace is being restored and maintained, making this an area where visitors can look forward to being transported back to the Edo period.
Blue and red stones create a unique soft atmosphere
Gyokusen-in-maru Garden, where Toshitsune began his garden, was reproduced in 2015.
Ishigawamon Gate was rebuilt in 1788 and is reflected in the cherry blossoms.

Kaburaki Shokudo Buke Yashiki Store," Kanazawa Oden with a refined taste

The Kaga Clan was a rich clan boasting one million koku (one million stone), and the area has developed a culinary culture that makes the most of refined flavors and local ingredients using kombu dashi (kelp dashi).
Therefore, our recommendation for lunch is Kanazawa oden, which has become popular in recent years. Kanazawa oden set menus, carefully prepared from bonito and kelp, are full of oden ingredients unique to Kanazawa, such as large pieces of fu, Kaga vegetable Gensuke daikon, and cute red rolled fish cakes. The ingredients change according to the season, so you can enjoy the unique flavor of the season.
The restaurant is located in the former Naga-machi Buke Yashiki, a typical Kanazawa building made from an old private house. Kaburaki Shokudo Buke Yashiki is owned by Kaburaki Shoho, a merchant family that dealt in Kutani ware, and was established in 1805.
The museum has a Kutani Yaki store and a restaurant where you can enjoy Kutani Yaki porcelain meals. The restaurant overlooks the garden and offers set menus as well as a café menu.
Exterior view
Kanazawa Oden Set Meal
Kutani ware store is also located here.

Morihachi Honten, a confectionery shop for the Kaga Clan, established in 1625

Kanazawa, where the tea ceremony flourished, developed sophisticated Japanese sweets for the tea ceremony. Morihachi is a long-established confectionary store that has led Kanazawa's confectionary culture as the official confectionary of the Kaga Clan. Its signature product, "Choseiden," is one of the three best confections in Japan, and is made using traditional methods with Awa Wasanbon sugar, Hokuriku glutinous rice, and mizuame (starch syrup). This is a historic confectionery made by order of Maeda Toshitsune.
The temperature, humidity, and even the warmth of the hands touching the flour affect this delicate confectionery. The experience course of making such traditional confections is very popular. You can enjoy a moment of elegance and bliss.
Exterior view
Handmade rakugan
Enjoy a cup of green powdered tea with your handmade rakugan and a cup of green powdered tea at the end of the experience.

Introduction to Takaoka

Takaoka City in Toyama Prefecture has deep historical ties with Kanazawa. The city was founded by Maeda Toshinaga II, the son of Maeda Toshiie, the founder of Kanazawa. The city developed as the castle town of Takaoka Castle and prospered as a town of craftsmen invited by the Kaga Clan, as well as a town of merchants. The development and prosperity of Takaoka copperware was particularly remarkable. As in Kanazawa, the remains of the feudal domain era can still be seen throughout the city, including Kanaya-machi, Yamamachi-suji, and Kojo Park, making it an enjoyable place to tour.
Takaoka City is also known as the site of the former national capital of Echigo-China, which existed long before that. In the Nara period (710-794), Otomo no Iemochi was assigned to Takaoka as a provincial governor, and he left many poems composed in this area in Japan's oldest anthology of poetry, Manyoshu.

The tour will be guided by a volunteer guide, "Ai no Kaze," who will take you around Takaoka city.

Click here to see the article of Takaoka version.

Kanazawa and Takaoka were ruled by the Maeda family of the Kaga Domain.

Kanazawa City and Takaoka City were ruled by the Maeda family of the Kaga Clan during the Edo period. Both cities played important roles for the clan. Kanazawa was the castle town of Kanazawa Castle, the Maeda family's residence, and the political and administrative center of the clan. Samurai warriors and officials lived there, and the city was known for its samurai culture and crafts. On the other hand, Takaoka City developed as a merchant town through the encouragement of commerce and industry promoted by Toshinaga Maeda.
The two cities, both built by the Maeda family, have many things in common, such as the streets of the past, traditional crafts and rich food, Kenrokuen Garden and Old Castle Park, both designed by the Maeda family, the splendor of Kanazawa's Hyakumangoku culture and Takaoka's gorgeous festival of Mikurumayama, and more.
By walking around the town, one can discover similarities and differences between the two cities, and encounter interesting Kaga Hyakumangoku legacies. You can enjoy a trip filled with cultural flavor that will stay with you forever.

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