Saba Highway Kumagawa-juku, the road that brought the bounty of Wakasa's mountains and sea to Kyoto

  • Fukui
  • Sightseeing
View of Kumagawa-juku
Wakasa Town is located in the southern part of Fukui Prefecture (Reinan region). Facing Wakasa Bay to the north and bordering Omi Province to the southeast, the town was one of the "Miketsukuni" (food-producing provinces) that supported the capital's food culture by sending abundant marine products, salt, and other ingredients to Kyoto from ancient times. Kumagawa-juku, located in a mountain gorge almost in the center of Wakasa, developed through trade with Kyoto during the Edo period, transporting not only foodstuffs but also goods, people, and culture.
Kumagawa-juku on the Wakasa Saba Kaido Road Official website

History of Kumagawa-juku

Nagamasa Asano, who was heavily favored by Hideyoshi Toyotomi and became the lord of Wakasa, exempted Kumagawa from various duties and made it an inn town in 1589, as it was an important place for transportation and military affairs. Since then, the town has grown from a cold village of about 40 households to a town of over 200 households. The 1.1-kilometer-long townscape formed during the Edo period (1603-1867), which still remains today, consists of three districts: Kaminomachi, Nakanomachi, and Shimonomachi. In 1996, it was selected as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings, and in 2015, it was recognized as Japan Heritage No. 1 as "Goshoku Kuni Wakasa and Saba Kaido" (Goshoku Wakasa and Saba Road). In July 2024, it was selected as Japan Heritage Premium for the first time in Japan.
Kumagawa-juku

Kumagawa-juku, a place to enjoy culture and nature

The streetscape of Kumagawa-juku is characterized by a diverse array of buildings facing the road. In addition, the Maegawa River, an irrigation channel running along the street, was an indispensable waterway for street traffic. Each house has a masonry washing place called "kawato". Even today, people still wash vegetables in these kawato, showing the unique water culture of the area. The following is an introduction to the main buildings. The Hagino Residence is the oldest townhouse in Kumagawa-juku and retains the wholesaler's style well. Shukubakan is a modern Western-style building that used to be the village office and is now a museum where visitors can learn about Kumagawa's history. The former Kanbei Itomi Residence is the birthplace of Takenosuke Ito, the second president of Itochu Corporation, and is now a cafe and lodging facility. Kumagawa Bansho is a nationally valuable historical building as a restored bansho remaining in the inn, with dolls of officials conducting audits and tools such as bows and arrows and sasumatars on display.
Kawato
Former IZUMI Residence
Shukuba-kan
Kumagawa guard station

There are temples, shrines, and historic sites in Kumagawa-juku!

Walking along the street, you will find several temples, shrines, and historical sites. Matsunoki (Matsunoki) Shrine is dedicated to Shozaemon Matsuki, a Wakasa righteous man who risked his life to save the farmers of Wakasa in order to reduce the annual tribute. The feudal lords of Wakasa gathered to make a petition to the county magistrate's office, with Shozaemon, who had just become a feudal lord that year, and others serving as their delegates. Thereafter, Shozaemon was severely tortured in prison for repeatedly making direct appeals dozens of times, but only Shozaemon endured the torture and was finally sentenced to be crucified, ending his life at the age of 28. Today, the shrine is a popular spot for viewing cherry blossoms and autumn leaves. Shiraishi Shrine is the local deity of Kumagawa Ward and the former designated village shrine. A festival with a parade of floats is held every year on May 3.
Matsuki Shrine
Shiraishi Shrine

Stores in renovated old private houses are also attractive!

There are many unique and wonderful stores that make use of the atmosphere of old houses. These include cafes, mackerel sushi, Echizen soba noodles, and other restaurants, as well as pottery studios, ninja dojos, and antique stores. There are also lodging facilities. The Yaokumagawa is an old private house inn. Currently, Yaokumagawa has renovated four old private houses in Kumagawa-juku and offers them for rent as an inn. Each inn has its own charm, from those where you can feel the murmuring of the Maegawa River close at hand to those where you can take a rest on the deck in the courtyard. You can stay with your family or with your close friends. You can fully enjoy the charm of Kumagawa-juku's richly natural satoyama that comes into view when you stay here. It is a good idea to spend a luxurious time, letting yourself be carried away by the flow of time felt in the quiet inn town in the mountains.
Old private house cafe
Yakumagawa

At the goal of your stroll, you will see a roadside station!

If you have taken a stroll from Obama side and walked to the bridge to Kyoto, you will reach the end of the inn town. At "Roadside Station Wakasa Kumagawa-juku," you can enjoy souvenirs and food and drink. This time, we enjoyed some of Fukui's famous gourmet specialties at the restaurant "Shikisaikan" in the Michi-no-Eki! Among them, the saba-zushi, a specialty of the saba road, is vinegared and enhances the flavor of the fatty cold mackerel. Yaki saba-zushi is a local dish of Fukui. The golden-brown grilled mackerel is plump and thick, and its savory aroma fills the mouth along with the vinegary sari.
Kumagawa-juku was used as a stopover along the Saba Kaido (mackerel highway) during the Edo period (1603-1867), and was also used as an inn for traveling on the Imperial visit and as a lodging for common people. If you visit Fukui and Wakasa, why not take a stroll through the beautiful townscape, which still conveys the bustling atmosphere of those days?
Mackerel sushi and grilled mackerel sushi
Oroshi Soba and Katsu-don (pork cutlet served on top of a bowl of rice)

Let's combine your favorite train and lodging to save money!

You can make your own original trip!

JR East View Dynamic Rail Package is a variable price individual travel product available only on the web. Depending on the timing and conditions of your application, you may be able to save even on the day of departure at the earliest! Enjoy your own personalized trip according to your schedule and purpose.
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