Niigata Prefecture 【Matsunoyama Onsen Hinano Yado Chitose】 Vol. 13: The charm of "local hot springs" from a hot spring guardian

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2022/10/24 2022/10/23

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The charm of "THE ONSEN" is revealed!

One of the most enjoyable aspects of travel is the local cuisine, the spectacular scenery that changes with the seasons, and of course, the onsen (hot springs)! Did you know that there are many hot springs in eastern Japan that are called "ji-onsen," or "local hot springs," and have been loved by locals for centuries? Once used as therapeutic hot spring baths, and even today there are many hot spring resorts that continue to heal people. We will introduce the charms of "local hot springs" that warm the body and soul in the form of an interview!

What is a "Yumamori"?

The word "yumori" means "guardian of hot spring water. In other words, a "yumori" is a caretaker of a hot spring. They are in charge of controlling the amount and temperature of the hot water. The traditional hot spring baths that have taken root in each area and are the pride of the yumori of the "local hot springs" introduced in this project have been protected by them throughout their long history.

Hinano Yado Chitose: Japan's Three Great Medicinal Hot Springs and Satoyama Culture

In the 13th installment of our series "Ask a Torman about the Charms of Local Hot Springs," we will introduce Hinano Yado Chitose in Matsunoyama Onsen, Niigata Prefecture. We asked Mr. Yanagi, the innkeeper of the inn, about the inn's charms.

The tatami-matted interior of the inn makes you feel even more at home!

Hot springs in "Matsunoyama Township," a satoyama where the original landscape of Japan still remains

What kind of place is Matsunoyama Onsen where Hina no Yado Chitose is located?

Mr. Yanagi, the Yumori
"Matsunoyama Township in Tokamachi City, Niigata Prefecture, is a "satoyama" where people's activities coexisting with nature, such as beautiful "terraced rice fields" and "beech forests," which are called the original landscape of Japan, still remain. At the bottom of the mountain range is Matsunoyama Onsen, a hot spring that is said to be 12 million years old fossilized sea.

A view of the hot spring resort area during the fall foliage season

What is Matsunoyama Onsen, one of the three major medicinal hot springs in Japan?

You say that Matsunoyama Onsen's hot water is one of the three best medicinal springs in Japan. Also, what are some of the unique features of Hinano Yado Chitose?

Mr. Yanagi Yumori
"Matsunoyama Onsen is located in Tokamachi City, Niigata Prefecture, and is surrounded by rich nature. Along with Arima Onsen and Kusatsu Onsen, it is one of the "three major medicinal hot springs in Japan.

The source is "fossil seawater," which is seawater from 12 million years ago that was trapped in the crevices of the earth's strata and erupts out of the ground. The hot spring water contains 15 times more hot spring water than the standard level required to be considered a hot spring, and is called "Yakuyu" (medicinal hot spring) because of its richness.

In addition to the richness of the hot spring, Hinano Yado Chitose is known for its local cuisine, which uses many local ingredients.

Attractions of Hinanoyado Chitose's hot springs

The variety of bathhouses, including open-air baths, indoor baths, and private baths, is very appealing.

Tsukimi-no-yu (open-air bath), men's and women's time alternation system

Mr. Yanagi Yumori
"In the open-air bath "Tsukimi-no-yu," with its travel-like atmosphere, you can enjoy the view of the four seasons and the fresh air as well as the hot spring water, which is free-flowing from the source and rich in beneficial properties. The bathtub is partitioned into a hot spring and a lukewarm spring. The hours of use are as follows: women's bath 6:30-12:00 → men's bath 13:00-18:30 → women's bath 19:00-23:00."

Honyara no Naiyu (indoor and outdoor baths) separate for men and women

Yumori Yanagi
"These are separate men's and women's large bathhouses with "open-air baths" and "indoor baths". The open-air bath is "souce-of-spring free-flowing hot-spring water" and the indoor bath is "new hot-spring water injection circulation method". The hours of use are 6:00 - 24:00."

Private baths "hot water of a mountain" and "hot water of a village

Yumori Yanagi
"There are two "private baths" where you can enjoy the "free-flowing hot-spring water" of Matsunoyama Onsen in private. Reservations are required, 1,100 yen for 45 minutes (tax included), and free of charge from 23:00 to 7:30 the next day."

Hospitality after bathing is also a nice point

At the "Yuagari-dokoro" in front of "Honyaro-no-yu," guests can freely enjoy a cold popsicle. In addition, local sake and Matsunoyama Onsen's specialty, "Touji Tamago (Touji egg)" cured in hot spring water for one day and night is available in a limited number of 30 pieces, so please check it out when you stay at the hotel. *They are available from 16:00.

Satoyama Kaiseki" to fully experience Matsunoyama's culinary culture.

I understand that you can enjoy dishes that make use of the food culture and local ingredients that remain in Matsunoyama. Also, what dishes do you recommend?

Mr. Yanagi Yumori
"We aim to offer handmade meals that are not limited to traditional ryokan cuisine, as satoyama kaiseki meals that weave together Matsunoyama's traditional flavors with seasonal sake vegetables. The cuisine at Chitose is Satoyama kaiseki, which uses an abundance of Matsunoyama's mountain bounty, such as wild vegetables and mushrooms. Local dishes that make use of preserved foods and traditional methods from the snow country appear here and there in the kaiseki meals.

Among them, "Touji Pork" cooked using hot spring heat, "Koikoku" which is popular even among those who do not like carp, and "Sankai-ni" which has been passed down in Matsunoyama from generation to generation are traditional tastes you must try when you come to Chitose. These dishes are offered with the hope of directly responding to travelers' desire to enjoy local food in a local way.

Matsunoyama Onsen specialty "Tanada nabe

Mr. Yanagi Yumori
"By the way, Matsunoyama, which has no flat terrain, is also famous for its beautiful terraced rice paddies, which attract numerous photographers from all over the country in search of the most beautiful view in a thousand years. The terraced rice paddies in summer, which look like a green carpet, are beautiful, but the beauty of the terraced rice paddies in winter is exceptional. On the day of the first snowfall, the terraced rice paddies with fluffy snowflakes piled up gently and tastefully.

This scenery is used as a nabe in Matsunoyama Onsen's famous "Tanada Nabe," which appears in the middle of the dinner.

This nabe is based on a heavy broth of Koshihikari rice, and is filled with vegetables from Matsunoyama in a heavy broth, topped with grated daikon (Japanese radish), which is used to resemble snow. Koshihikari rice is of course Matsunoyama's terraced rice. Tanada nabe" is a Matsunoyama Onsen specialty, and can be enjoyed at most inns in the hot spring resort area during the cold season, but each inn has its own original recipe, except for the use of Koshihikari rice in the soup.

What is Chitose's original tanada nabe?

Chitose's original tanada nabe is made with winter vegetables such as Chinese cabbage, carrot, brick, and shimeji mushrooms, Tsumari pork, and Koshihikari rice roasted in a soup with bonito broth, and finally grated radish. The Koshihikari rice is the key to the flavor of the soup. The soup has a mild, thick flavor, so the Koshihikari rice balls give the soup a more robust taste and make it much tastier.

Terraced rice field hot pot at Hina no Yado Chitose

The combination of "Shio-no-ko" and Koshihikari rice is exceptional!

Shionoko" is a condiment that goes well with tanada nabe. Shionoko" is an original spice made by finely chopping Kagura Nanban, mixing it with malted rice and salt, and aging it for one year. (Kagura nanban is a traditional summer vegetable produced in the Chuetsu region of Niigata Prefecture, and is characterized by its bell pepper-like shape and tangy, spicy flavor.) It is tangy and spicy, but matches well with the sweetness of Koshihikari soup. In the Matsunoyama area, it is often made at home, and some families have "our family's taste" that has been handed down from generation to generation.

The "salt cod roe" is delicious when served on top of freshly cooked Koshihikari rice. After the tanada nabe, koshihikari rice grown in the terraced rice paddies of Matsunoyama by the former chef of Chitose will be served, so be sure to try it."

Stay as if you were living in a hot spring resort. Touji Bar

I heard that there is a facility called Touji BAR across the street from your inn.

Tumori Yanagi
"Matsunoyama Onsen is one of the three major medicinal hot springs in Japan. It has flourished as a therapeutic hot spring resort since ancient times, and we have established a new accommodation base that proposes a new way to spend your time. The theme is "stay as if you were living in a hot spring resort. It will provide a tourist information center, café and bar, workspace, and accommodations for long-term stays to meet the diverse needs of travelers.

Touji Bar" across the street from the inn

The cafe and bar will be located on the first floor of the Touji BAR, and the sofa space in the back will offer a view of the townscape of Matsunoyama Onsen and the Yumoto River flowing by. The first floor of Touji Bar is a multi-purpose space that includes the Satoyama Visitor Center, a tourist information center, and a café and bar. At the Satoyama Visitor Center, you can consult with the staff about how to spend your time in Matsunoyama Onsen during your stay. It has become a focal point of Matsunoyama Onsen Town that can be used as a café and working space during the day and as a bar at night throughout the day."

Feel the "heartbeat of the forest" in Matsunoyama, a place of heavy snowfall.

Please tell us about the charms of Matsunoyama and what you recommend for visitors in the fall and winter.

Mr. Yanagi Yumori
"Walking on the yellow fallen leaves in the Beauty Forest in late autumn is wonderful, but in winter, when it snows heavily in Matsunoyama, you can feel the heartbeat of living creatures as you explore the quiet forest from the top of three meters of snow. Why don't you put on snowshoes and walk through the silvery white forest of beauties? Matsunoyama's resident satoyama experts will guide you as they talk about the charms of Matsunoyama in winter and their traditional winter lifestyle."

The entrance is covered with a lot of snow in winter

Recommended Experience Plan Let's go see the snow flowers! ～Snowshoeing and Irori (hearth) experience in Bijinrin (beautiful forest)

Our guides, who are Matsunoyama residents, will show you how to put on snowshoes, take a walk in the beauty forest, and talk about the local lifestyle.

Hina-no-Yado Chitose HP

What is the commitment of the Yumamori?

Matsunoyama Onsen Town glistening in the snow

Lastly, please tell us about your commitment and thoughts as a yumoriya and your message to customers.

Mr. Yanagi Yumori
"In late autumn, when the snow falls, people in snow country look a little depressed. This is because they are about to begin their struggle against the snow. We experience an indescribably lonely and sad feeling every year. However, as the snow melts, the mountains come alive with laughter and explosions of greenery are everywhere. And what do you think, the faces and emotions of the people who have been held back during the winter begin to smile and attend to the green mountains at the same time. The instinct to detoxify with the mountain's bounty of wild vegetables begins to kick in. In particular, mountain experts compete with each other to pick "Zenmai," a preserved food in the snow country, and make dried Zenmai.

Ironically, as soon as the snow disappears, people begin to prepare for the next winter. I would be happy if I could share with you in my travels how this cycle is repeated every year in the snow country."

Visit "Hinano Yado Chitose," which offers the culture and wisdom of living in the satoyama.

How was it? This time we asked you to tell us more about "Matsunoyama Onsen Hinano Yado Chitose" in Niigata Prefecture. In addition to the charm of the hot springs, you can experience the various cultures and wisdom that have been preserved in Matsunoyama Township at Hinano Yado Chitose. It is an inn that we hope you will visit in winter. Please come and visit!

Location

49-1 Yumoto, Matsunoyama, Tokamachi City, Niigata Prefecture

Access

From Matsudai Station on the Hokuhoku-Hokuhoku Line Take a 20-minute bus bound for Matsunoyama Onsen, Get off at Matsunoyama Onsen Bus Stop and walk for about 2 minutes.

*The contents and services in this article are subject to change.

*All images are for reference only.

Cooperation: Hina-no-Yado Chitose

◆Next notice

We will continue to bring you the charms of eastern Japan's "local hot springs" in our series, "The Charms of Local Hot Springs"! Please look forward to the next installment.
If you would like to know more about "Ji-onsen", please click the link below.

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